When traveling abroad, I often visit one or two museums. As I have many things that I want to do during my stay, I have often chosen famous, popular and large museums.

However, Delacroix Museum in Paris made me realized that small museums have their own charm. Although I entered the museum just because Museum Pass covered it, I enjoyed not only his works but the atmosphere of Paris from the building and interior. Most of all, it wasn’t too large to see so that I still had energy to go shopping!

Nezu Museum is something like that. Renovated in 2009, the building is designed by Kengo Kuma, one of the famous Japanese architects. Its simple and modern building has the flavor of Japan. Exhibits are mainly Japanese and Asian art objects and changed periodically.

The most attractive point of this museum is its large Japanese-style garden. As the scenery changes with each step you take, you will never get tired of walking here. While walking in the maze-like garden, I almost forget that this museum is located in the area full of high grade brands. In the season of Iris, we can see both the famous painting of Irises and ones in the garden.

Don’t forget stopping by the lovely cafe with a great view of beautiful garden which is opened to visitors only.

If you want a quick taste of Japan or escaping the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, Nezu Museum is a hidden gem.

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Nezu Museum

Open: 10:00-17:00 (entrance closes on 16:30), closed on Monday, the New Year’s holidays and while changing exhibits, about 10 days after an exhibition.

http://www.nezu-muse.or.jp/

I found a unique and charming café in Omotesando. Aoyama Flower Market, a popular flower shop chain for locals, opened a café at the back of the flower shop. As expected of a café produced by a flower shop, it’s like a greenhouse full of flowers and greenery. Its flower decorations are seasonal and gorgeous, and changed once a week.

I was surprised to see the menu. There was no coffee. After a while, I realized that the aroma of coffee might be too strong in this café. I usually love the aroma of coffee and feel relaxed but here, it was right to enjoy fresh green and flower scent.

I ordered a fresh herbal tea and lemon cake. The tea was served in a glass teapot with several kinds of fresh herbs. It looks beautiful. The simple cake made the most of ingredients with rich flavor of lemons.

Interestingly, the seating arrangement is unique. Except for the counter seats, all tables are for two and there are spaces for flower arrangements between each table. If your group is four, you can sit next to each other but the space between tables offer a sense of distance. Perhaps this café is good for one or two who want to relax or talk softly and warmly. It’s like the “secret garden”.

If you have a craving for coffee, I can’t recommend here unfortunately. This café makes you feel that life surrounded by flowers is wonderful!

Aoyama Flower Market TEA HOUSE (map)
5-1-2, Minami -aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Open: 11:00-21:00 ( – 19;00 on Sun & Holidays)

Kamakura is one of the popular one-day trip destinations for Tokyoites. Kamakura is known as a historic town where the first military government was seated for about 150 years from the end of the 12^th century.

Why is Kamakura so popular? Its beautiful nature which surrounded on three sides by mountains and the other side is open to the sea, traditional atmosphere and location only an hour by train from Tokyo are just some of the reasons.

Kamakura is not only one of the most popular touristic places, but exclusive residential area which had been loved by celebrities. Maybe this is the reason why there are many fine restaurants and sweets shops and the name of “Kamakura” became to have status as a brand. We can find roast beef and sweets named “Kamakura” at department stores in Tokyo. Tokyoites may have the image of high quality for them.

That is applied to vegetables as well and specially called as Kamakura vegetables. The chefs in Tokyo go all the way to Kamakura to get locally-grown vegetables. Kamakura vegetables are basically sold at farmer’s market, not sold at wholesale. The local farmers grow a wide variety of vegetables including rare foreign vegetables and herbs in small quantities with care.

People are attracted by Kamakura because of everlasting shrines and temples, and continuing to develop based on the history and needs of the time.

I was on a ferry to Shodoshima Island, one of the largest islands in the Seto Inland Sea. An hour ferry ride from Takamatsu kept me from getting bored because the view, many small islands floating in the blue water, was magnificent. At Shodoshima, I had planned to get around by rental bicycles. There are traditional wooden soy sauce factories and olive fields along the coast which are partially open to public and some also have restaurants and cafes.

 When pedaling around noon, I saw soy sauce factories’ workers everywhere taking a break outside. I realized these factories and fields are rooted in their community, not just for sightseeing. The total distance was about 13km, 4-hour ride, and it was a perfect day for cycling.  In the ferry on the way back to Takamatsu, I fell asleep facing away from the water.

Next day, I went to Megijima Island where about 200 people live. There was no supermarket in this peaceful island, but contemporary art works here and there caught my eye. Although an island suffering from declining population and contemporary art are apparently opposing, those art works seemed to have blended in with the island’s landscape.

 
What created them here? Setouchi International Art Festival was held in Takamatsu and its surrounding islands last year and we can enjoy some of art works still now. If I had more time, I’d have hopped to another island.

Let’s not forget about Takamatsu. I wanted to visit Ritsurin Garden because the garden is rated highly by a guidebook for foreigners. True to its reputation, it was so picturesque garden mainly composed of especially manicured pine trees. I believe this is one of the best gardens in Japan.

After strolling around the garden, I ate udon which is popular local food. Udon is simple noodle made from wheat flour served with fish-based soup. Many Japanese people travel in this area just to eat udon these days. Over 300 udon shop in Takamatsu won’t disappoint you.

 
(Location)
From Tokyo: 1.5 hours by airplane or 4.5 hours by Shinkansen and train
From Osaka: 2 hours by Shinkansen and train

Although supermarkets have everything, I like to go shopping at Tsukiji Market to buy fresh, good quality and reasonable seafood. The number of foreign tourists had increased recently but there were few tourists when I visited last week.

I wanted to buy dried small sardines to make soup stock from them for miso soup. Instant soup stock is available but making soup stock from scratch will make a difference.

I found a shop specialized in dried seafood at the inner market. “Are there any good dried small sardines?” I asked the staff. He recommended additive-free one from Ehime prefecture. (Antioxidants are usually used for quality preservation.) The size was bigger than normal one and the taste itself was good. It was a little bit over my budget but I decided to buy it.

After that, I browsed the outer market which has about 350 shops. At a shop specialized in tuna, I saw a man who appeared to be a cook bought big chunks of tuna roughly put in a plastic bag. It was quite cheap, only 300 yen. I asked the staff how to eat it. He said “That’s “kama”, a rare portion of tuna which is rich in fat and tastes like sparerib. I like simply grilled kama with salt the best among the various cuts of tuna.” I decided to buy it by his words.

In the evening, I grilled it for dinner. As the staff said, it was great and absolutely a bargain. When I go shopping at Tsukiji, I always find something I want to buy. That’s what’s keeping me going to Tsukiji!

The cherry blossom season has come again this year. As you may know, sakura, or cherry blossoms are regarded as the flower which symbolizes the country and have long been loved by Japanese people. Some points how much we love are;

- We know when cherry blossoms are in full-bloom in our neighborhood. During this period, weather information companies issue their cherry blossom forecasts every week. Most people use this information to arrange drinking parties or picnic.

- Many seasonal sakura-flavored foods are appeared throughout the country like sweets, tea, rice and bread. Starbucks offers sakura-flavored frappuccino and scorn.

- More than 300 songs’ titles include “sakura” and more than 1000 songs are based on cherry blossoms in Japan. It’s like songs based on Christmas in western countries.

- We say “Finally cherry trees have blossomed” as a metaphor for passing entrance exams. Most entrance exams are held in January and February, and announce the results in March in Japan, which evoke the fact that cherry blossoms mark the beginning of spring after long winter.

The New Year is the beginning of the year. Also, we can say April is the beginning of new life. The school and business year starts in April and ends in March, so cherry blossoms are always there at important occasions like graduation or entrance ceremonies and personnel reshuffle. Cherry blossoms are not just flowers but something special for Japanese people.

Two weeks have passed since a disastrous earthquake and tsunami hit north-eastern Japan on March 11, 2011. What’s going on now in Tokyo?

I went to Shibuya for the first time since the quake. Subways were crowded with businessmen and women, and at the famous Shibuya crossing, hundreds of people crossed when the traffic lights changed. I spent my day off having lunch at cent trente-neuf, a café I wanted to try and stopping by a department store’s basement food floor to buy some bread introduced in a magazine. Our daily lives are getting back to normal.

The only change is that subway stations dim out and neon billboards and video screens are voluntary stopped. Because of the damage of nuclear power plants, an electric power company has decided to implement rolling blackouts in and around Tokyo. Flashy neon signs would have been Tokyo’s image but it became darker than before at night now.

The status of the nuclear plants is unstable and change from day to day. Newspapers and TV report the radiation dose throughout north-eastern Japan everyday though the level is harmless to human health except for the area near the plants. In some areas, radioactive material above the legal limit has been found in tap water and some vegetables, so mineral water bottles are sold out quickly at supermarkets.

People become a little nervous but many nuclear plant workers are trying to prevent the crisis situation. We can only pray for their safety and things getting better.

If you have already drunk Japanese sake in your country, I would recommend trying true Japanese sake when you come to Japan. Sake no Daimasu is a liquor store located just next to Senso-ji temple in Asakusa. The liquor store, which also has a sake bar, is attracting sake lovers. 

Daimasu sake bar offers many kinds of premium sake at reasonable prices from 90ml or 180ml, which is good for those who want to taste a glass of sake and also sake lovers who want to try many different kinds of sake. They have about 40 kinds of sake, other alcohol beverages and tasty appetizers on the menu.

 
Although the details of all sake like sweet or dry, production areas and varieties based on ingredients and brewing process are on the menu, it’s difficult to choose my favorite one.

I asked the staff to recommend good sake according to my preference, dry and fruity like white wine. It was right. I chose premium sake using special rice from Saga prefecture (500yen/90ml), which had aromatic, light tastes and was easy to drink.

When you go to izakaya, or Japanese-style pub, you will find sake but they usually offer some ordinary ones like table wine, not premium ones. There are few places to offer so many kinds of sake, having the English menu with detailed description like Daimasu. If you find your favorite sake, it’s great to buy the bottle at the liquor store for your souvenir.

Sake no Daimasu – Daimasu Sake Bar (map)
1-2-8, Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Open everyday 12:00-24:00

If Harajuku is teen’s heaven and Akihabara is geek’s mecca, we might say that Okubo is home to fans of Korean actors or pop stars.

Unlike other Korean towns, there are not only Korean restaurants but many shops selling items related to Korean actors. Those shops are packed with many enthusiastic Japanese female fans across the generations and popular restaurants and stalls have long lines. The foods at the restaurants are big-potions, not to mention inexpensive. We can enjoy lunch at 600yen. Anyway, Okubo located next to Shinjuku was just full of people on weekends when I visited last week.

Why are Korean actors and pop stars so popular in Japan? Some people say they are truly manly man and their performance is great, others say South Korea is the closest neighbor of Japan and advancing cultural exchanges each other. However, I’m not sure the real reason for Korean boom in Japan.

The interesting thing in Tokyo is many areas have their own characteristics and attract a particular group of people regardless of ethnic or religious group. When visiting Tokyo, let’s stop a minute and watch people so that you may feel what the area is.

Okubo (map)

Under the elevated railway tracks between Akihabara and Okachimachi stations, 32 arts and crafts-themed shops and cafes called “2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan” were just opened this month. These shops also have their own workshops there, so we can watch artists making their works and talk to them face-to-face.

Why are art and craft featured here? In this area, traditional arts and crafts started to flourish in the 17^th century but it has long been stagnant. I’ve never before imagined this area became an interesting place.

These days, many young artists moved to eastern Tokyo including this area and opened their workshops and galleries at renovated old buildings. They create in small quantities but have trend-conscious design, a love of qualities and individual sense.

One of my favorite shops is “inoui” which a former chef who cooked French cuisine creates cute leather items. Their popular items are biscuit-like leather charms. As they look so real, my mouth is watering. It is said that handing down traditional crafts is getting difficult owing to the aging of workforce and the overseas transfer but I look forward to opening the way to traditional craft’s future.

2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan (map)

5-9-23, Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Open: 11:00-19:00 closed on Wednesday
http://www.jrtk.jp/2k540/ (Japanese only)